Container bunker

This is one brilliant idea. Containers are prone to rust if they are not well treated. One can pick up a good container in Cape Town for under R10k and bury it in your yard without anyone ever noticing. Another problem this specific guy might have is that the container does not look that strong from above, if a car drives over the container it might fall in. The best way to ensure a safe container underground is to put beams right across and leave some space between the beams and the container with pressure gauges, that way you can also track the pressure from above and track any changes.

This guy also used 6inches of cement, that might be a bit much but the cement would make it a lot stronger.

New report shows flaws in GM seeds

A new report by the Organic Center shows us that the amount of herbicides used on GM ( genetically engineered) crops went up dramtically in the last 10 years as weeds seem to adapt to Roundup and Glyphosate. The new report found that more and more herbicides are needed.

Genetically-engineered corn, soybeans, and cotton now account for the majority of acres planted to these three crops. A model was developed that utilizes official, U.S. Department of Agriculture pesticide use data to estimate the differences in the average pounds of pesticides applied on GE crop acres, compared to acres planted to conventional, non-GE varieties.

The basic finding is that compared to pesticide use in the absence of GE crops, farmers applied 318 million more pounds of pesticides over the last 13 years as a result of planting GE seeds. This difference represents an average increase of about 0.25 pound for each acre planted to a GE trait.

GE crops are pushing pesticide use upward at a rapidly accelerating pace. In 2008, GE crop acres required over 26% more pounds of pesticides per acre than acres planted to conventional varieties. The report projects that this trend will continue as a result of the rapid spread of glyphosate-resistant weeds.

Data from the Department of Agriculture in the US was used.

The study also found that not only did presticide use go up but the use of Roundup also increased. Many farmers now decide to switch back to conventional seeds since the GM seeds are resistant to weeds. In the past Roundup killed all weeds, now they only kill some weeds and where farmers could only use Roundup they now also use more toxic chemicals.

The Full report can be found here

BILLS: HR 875 and S 425 comes closer to codex alimentarius. End of organic farming in US

Washington, USA – Two new bills that recently got introduced in the US will only give them two weeks to make sure that these draconian bills do not pass. BILLS: HR 875 and S 425 will officially mean the end of organic farming in the US. This comes a lot closer to codex alimentarius being fully implemented. 

Under these two new bills being introduced the Department of agriculture will be enabled to ORDER organic farmers what to feed their livestock, how to medically treat the livestock and all animals as well as exactly what toxic sprays they must use over their organic crops.

Basically, ALL aspects of organic farming will be made illegal and farmers using organic methods will be listed as sources using seeds containing contamination and could face up to $500 000 fines or jail terms

Off Grid Apparel

UNDERWEAR for outdoor use in any but hot weather should be wool or part wool. Even in summer, wool serves to ward off chills after the body has become wet from perspiration or rain. You will vary the weight of the garments in accordance with the season, of course. Drawers should have full or three-quarter-length legs, to foil the bugs which get up your pants legs, and shirts may well have long

sleeves for protection of arms and wrists. Separate shirts and drawers are superior to union suits, as they are easier to change after a partial ducking and far handier to wash.

SOCKS should be of soft, heavy wool; the best quality you can afford, and perfectly fitted. Your tender feet will need such protection from excess perspiration and rough trails, when on the march.

BOOTS merit the most particular attention, as poor ones can easily ruin any trip. For most seasons of the year, soft leather boots made in moccasin style, but with flexible composition soles and rubber heels, are very satisfactory. Regular moccasins, with no soles or heels, are pretty harsh on city feet if much walking is to be done, but are fine for wear around camp or in a canoe. The high-top boot of the Army stores and the mail-order catalogues is of little value to a woodsman. It weighs too much; has stiff, heavy soles; cramps the leg muscles; prevents proper ventilation of the feet and requires too much time for putting on and taking off. The high tops serve no purpose other than confining the bottoms of breeches legs, which long socks would do as well. The same long socks, inside loose trouser legs, would probably defeat snake fangs to better effect than tight leather boot tops. No boot top is ever high enough to prevent going in over where water is encountered.

I like a g-inch “bird shooter” style boot better than any other, for all-round use. The tops are high enough to keep out pebbles and sticks kicked up in walking and serve to confine the bottoms of trouser legs when occasion demands. There are no hooks to catch grass and brush. The composition soles hold well on rock, dry grass and pine needles and are beautifully flexible for walking. They wear wonderfully well and afford good footing on logs.

For wet going, in snow or marsh, rubber boots are needed. There are many styles, ranging from the common hip boot

to leather-top rubbers, the favorite of most woodsmen. These’ are heavier than leather boots and unsuitable for mild weather hiking, as they condense and hold perspiration. They are treacherous on wet logs and ice, especially after the soles are worn smooth, but you may wear ice creepers with them to good effect.

You should use a good boot grease or dubbing on leather boots, applying it often and thoroughly, when the footwear is dry. Oil-tanned leather can be kept in fine condition by such treatment, but will freeze stiff as a board in extreme cold. Smoke-tanned leather is the stuff for wear in very low temperatures.

Hobnails in boot soles are an abomination, except for lumberjacks and golfers. They hurt the feet when walking on hard surfaces, pick up all kinds of trash and are generally treacherous on rock. You can imagine what they do to tent floors and canoe bottoms. Mountaineers are supposed to favor them, traditionally, but many have been converted to composition soles in recent years. If I had to wear hobs or calks, I would use round-headed brass screws, with about three sharp calks in the instep of each boot for footing on logs.

Exercise the greatest of care in fitting boots for use on the trail. If too tight, they will cause you agony during a long march, and if too loose they will work up blisters. It is a pretty good scheme to try on new boots over two pairs of woolen socks, for a fairly snug fit. That will allow sufficient room for expansion as your feet spread out in the course of a hike, unless your arches flatten out completely. If you are troubled with weak arches, get arch supports with your new boots, as you would with everyday street shoes. Change socks during a long trek, for relief from “hot foot.”

To serve as camp slippers, “glove” rubbers are worthy of some consideration. They weigh very little and afford the

advantage of being waterproof. A man may slip on a pair of these over his socks and walk about in the early morning dew dry-shod.

Spare footwear should be carried in a stout drawstring shoe bag, so that moisture and dirt will not soil or damage other items in the pack. A piece of discarded oilcloth is often used for this purpose, but is far heavier than the inexpensive cotton bags offered by most outfitters. They weigh about 3 ounces.

PANTS from a discarded business suit are favored by some for wear in the woods, but in general their material and construction leave something to be desired. They present the constant threat of bursting seams and popping buttons, also. It is far smarter to buy garments made especially for the hard usage and hearty activity of outdoor life and avoid the risk of sudden disaster. Hard-woven fabrics are best for the purpose, as they gather fewer burrs than softer stuff and resist snags and tears to better effect. Whipcord or twill is very good and the fine worsted used by the ‘ Army is just about ideal. Many favor the modern light-; weight fabrics, such as Gale cloth and Byrd cloth, and others, denim, in the form of cowpunchers’ overalls or ! Levis. Heavy wool is fine for sitting in a blind or on a ‘■ runway, but is apt to be very bunchy in the crotch and uncomfortable for walking. Also, it dries very slowly after I wetting. It is preferable to wear several layers of underwear, rather than heavier pants, for warmth.

CUFFS on a woodsman’s trousers serve no purpose but to gather trash and retain unwanted moisture.

BREECHES are very neat, but not especially practical ‘ for a woodsman. They usually bind over the knees, es-: pecially when you are sitting in a canoe. Also, when tucked I into boot tops they can make your legs unbearably hot and j sticky, for want of ventilation.


Regardless of weather, after a thorough wetting take off your clothes, wring them out and put them on again — that is, if a dry change is not available.

SUSPENDERS do the best job of holding up pants and breeches with heavily laden pockets and afford more freedom of action than a tight belt serving the same purpose.

SHIRTS are made to suit any purse or purpose. The fine woolens, in coat style, are very handsome and serviceable, but require a long-sleeved undershirt beneath them if bugs are to be encountered. They are very comfortable in cold weather, however, as the collar may be unbuttoned to cool off an overheated neck. The turtle-neck sweater, once so highly favored by collegians, offers no such advantage and is a most annoying chafer of day-old beards, to boot. The pull-over, with crew neck, long sleeves and knitted wristlets, is a favorite for moderate weather. In summer, I wear a pre-shrunk cotton sweat shirt of this model, the long, tight sleeves and the thick fabric offering fine defense against black flies and mosquitoes. It absorbs perspiration quite efficiently, washes easily and requires no ironing for neat appearance. A woolen version affords good comfort on chilly days.

A JACKET is required by most sportsmen, for protection against wind, rain and changes in temperature. Get one that will survive pretty rough usage, so you may toss it around in canoe or camp without fear of damage. It should have four pockets, with button-down flaps or zipper closures to prevent loss of odds and ends, and be long enough to cover the small of your back when sitting. Wool is the most satisfactory material, except in summer, when some light, tough fabric will be more comfortable. A buttoned front is generally more convenient than a zipper.

Jackets filled with eider down are offered in many styles and provide a maximum of cold-weather protection at mini-

mum weight. It would be hard to imagine anything more comfortable for sitting in a frosty blind or on a windy runway, but for all-around service such a garment is too easily damaged. Good ones are quite expensive, too, which eliminates them from the ordinary camper’s consideration.

Any jacket may become a nuisance when a hot ten-o’clock sun begins to dispel the early morning chill. If you are on foot and a long way from your base at such a time, you have to choose between the discomfort of wearing the coat and the inconvenience of carrying it. An improvised pack harness of heavy cord or light rope could serve to make the rolled-up garment a little back pack, out of the way and instantly ready for use in the cool evening. Two 4-foot pieces of clothesline would do the trick and add but little in bulk and weight to your equipment.

A HAT affords the best head covering in any but frosty weather, as its brim shades the eyes and neck from hot sunlight and serves to drape a head net away from the face. A light treatment of liquid waterproofing will benefit any hat worn for outdoor work.

BELTS with zipper-closed pockets for folding money are on the market and you’ll find one of these very satisfactory for general use.

A KERCHIEF for your neck helps prevent bug bite and sunburn. It should be plenty large — say 24 inches square — and made of soft cotton or silk. The bandanna patterns, in red or blue, are most practical. Use the kerchief to tie down your hat on windy days.

GLOVES are pretty much of a necessity for the camper and will prevent many a blister and sliver in addition to defeating the fell purpose of black flies and mosquitoes. Stout buckskin, or other leather guaranteed to dry out soft after a wetting, is the proper material.

SPARE CLOTHING should be kept to a minimum on any camping trip. It is well enough to provide for every contingency, but an oversupply of miscellany soon gets to be a nuisance in camp, not only to the owner, but to his companions also. A few changes of underwear and socks, several handkerchiefs, an extra shirt, pair of pants, sweater and a change of footwear are about all that need be considered. If your outing is to be of some duration, include a cake of naphtha soap and some clothespins and plan to do a bit of laundry work occasionally. A drawstring bag, pillow slip or clean flour sack will carry spare clothing very nicely


THE PONCHO is your best bet for rain protection. It is nothing more or less than a waterproof sheet, with a slot in the middle for your head to go through. As a rain cape, it will drape over a pack on your back, cover your knees when you are sitting in a boat and allow plenty of ventilation. In camp, you can use it as a ground cloth, a cover for browse bags full of wet leaves, or a cooking shelter. Two ponchos, fastened together, make a shelter cloth that is well-nigh indispensable when camping with a crawl-in tent. The best size for a poncho is the largest offered — 66 x 90 inches. I like the Alligator material better than any other, as lighter-weight stuff will not stand as much abuse. You’ll find it handy to work in three extra grommets on each long side and at least one on each short side of any poncho you buy, as the manufacturers have seen fit to furnish grommets only at the corners.

Making your own organic pesticide and fungicide

pestsI have always preferred organic, who wouldn’t? There is nothing that taste as good as a freshly picked fruit or vegetable. There was just two things that have kept me from making a veggie garden myself; reason number one for me is that the snails and other bugs get to the fruit before I can and two I am really bad at growing something from the seedling 🙂 my patience does extend to waiting so long. The second reason I would just have to accept as part of nature but my first one I can do something about. I hate chemicals in a garden. I have two beautiful children who would put anything in their mouths so ‘traditional’ pesticides are out. The whole point of a garden is to eat something fresh and healthy not to feel as if you are handling poison the whole time. So when I saw this article on spices that kill garden pests I just had to check this out. You would be surprised by the things I learned.

Oils from thyme, rosemary, mint has been tested the most. Their oils can kill other bugs: Research suggests the oils interfere with the insect nervous system, making the muscles so hyperactive that bugs essentially spasm to death.

The oils also can disrupt an insect’s cellular membranes, causing fatal leakages of essential fluids.

The plant oils are most effective against small, soft-bodied bugs that suck on plant juices, such as aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites.

There is a couple of side effects such as it does not last as long nor is it as strong as conventional pesticides. That only means you would have to apply it more often and in large quantities for it to me truly effective. The plus side is that it’s easy accessible and only harms the bugs you want to keep away and not bees and butterflies that you want to encourage to come to your plants. This results in your plants producing more.

garlic_drawingIn my quest to find more information on organic pesticides I also found other methods such as cross cultivating. One of the things that you could use a lot is garlic. For example if you plant garlic with tomatoes it would repel red spiders and mites. If you plant it around fruit trees it would keep away borers. You could even spray garlic on sweet potatoes to keep rabbits away. And this little tip has nothing to do with a garden but it is handy, if you have a pond in your garden or there are ponds or still water you can spray the ponds with garlic-based oil that would kill all the mosquitoe larvy and the adult mosquitos.

Here is a handy recipe:

You can plant garlic and onions in your garden to ward off pests with their aromatic scents or you can make a mixture of garlic, onion, and green peppers to spray on your plants. In a blender add a couple habeneros peppers (or any really hot peppers), a large onion (chopped up), a whole bulb of garlic cloves (peeled), enough water to blend the ingredients together into a mush. After all is mixed and blended cover with a gallon of warm water and let stand 24 hours then strain. Pour mixture into a spray bottle and mist your infested plants. Repeat daily until pests are gone. You may want to try spraying a little on a few leaves first to make sure you don’t get a bad reaction on your plants. Keep all unused mixture in the refrigerator for freshness. Since garlic is a broad spectrum natural insecticide, it will kill beneficial insects as well as the pests. Spray only the affected areas where pests are doing most damage. Organic compounds like allicin found in garlic, capsaicinoids derived from green chilies and sulphur compounds extracted from onion give the pesticide the strength to fight the pests.

marigolds_veggie_gardenYou could create a border around your vegtable garden by planting planting Marigolds, lemon grass, neem tree, cosmos, thyme, basil, rosemary, geranium, mint (pots are best since mint goes wild), rue, tansy, and oregano these plants keep away pest away naturally. If you do want to you could mix them together so that it looks more like a wild garden than a vegetable or herb garden.

I found these three videos of a organic farmer in India. The first video is about him explaining why and how he started farming organically the second is how he is using cow dung for fertilizer and gas for daily use. And third video is of what he uses for Organic pesticide and fungicide.